Monday, September 12, 2011

Veerudada: The Transgender Leader


It takes a lot to be a good leader: courage, ability to earn trust, ability to lead from the front, to break an impasse, take a decision and seeing beyond the obvious.

But if you ask Veerudada, she will tell you that a leader has just one challenge: understanding the problem of the people he/she leads.


Veerudada should know. She has been doing it for years. In several states across India, the government has taken an urbanization drive, which is putting thousands of rickshaw drivers out of business.  Veerudada is fighting to see that each rickshaw driver is given his due compensation and a rehabilitation package – a promise that governments have made, but aren’t honoring.

If you visit Allahabad city in northern India, you can sometimes see a rally of rickshaw drivers which is led by a slogan shouting, fists-in–the air Veerudada.

Saturday, September 10, 2011

9/11 - My Story



I was recently asked by someone how the terror attack of 9/11 affected me.

My first reaction was: It didn’t affect me at all. I was in Chennai (India) on that day. I remember munching on some snacks and watching TV, when suddenly on the screen CNN flashed ‘America Attacked’. I was shocked, but thousands of miles away, in the comfort of home. I hardly felt the heat.

And then, I remembered, it’s not true. 9/11 did affect me, indirectly of course, but it sure did.



As I said, I watched the news of the terror attack on TV and said ‘phew!’ like millions others.

However, unknown to me, the life of someone in my own family was about to change drastically: My brother in law – then an employee of one of the largest audit firms - had just been transferred from India to NY and was about to resume his office which was located in the WTC building. On the day of the attack, he was in India; his wife - my sister - had just delivered their second baby and the family was to fly to NY in a week. They had already packed, sold off their furniture, the kitchenware and pretty much every other household stuff. 

Thursday, September 08, 2011

Breaking News From Tihar Prison




Hello folks! Evening! Time to hear
your neighborhood news reader
once again. In this bulletin
there’s news brought from within
secured walls of prison Tihar
in New Delhi; you know where

nowadays half of India’s crooks-
(whom for long we all mistook
as honest and good folks) are
having a special get together.

Wednesday, September 07, 2011

Assange vs Mayawati: My Peace Pact

Good evening folks, hope you are
doing really fine out there.
I have, for you, some news with me
hot as hell, and very spicy.
You will love it. So, come on in
Let us listen to this bulletin.

Sunday, September 04, 2011

In The Land Of The Smiling Buddha


It's been a while since I sang my last song of the road. Today, I decided to get back into my groove :) So, allow me, my friends, to take you to Arunachal Pradesh - one of the most mysterious, and most beautiful states in my very beautiful North-East (India).  


Above my head, there is a kingdom of grey cloud. Below, a carpet of white and orange poppies. A serpentine road passes by, combing through that carpet. And along that serpentine road I am moving on. My destination: Naamgye Lhatse, popularly known as Tawang monastery.



It had been nearly a 6-hour long journey along the Bomdilla-Tawang road in an old, rickety,but mercifully empty state road transport bus (somehow, I can’t resist these buses; to me they present India in an oddly romantic and raw manner). All along, the clouds kept running along with the bus and now, when I walking through the field of wild flowers, they swoop down suddenly, sprinkling a few droplets of water. In the act, I sense a welcome and my heart leaps with joy. Finally, I am here, in Tawang- the land of the beautiful people called the Monpa tribe.

Friday, September 02, 2011

Work Talk




 ‘The new girl in office is a slut.’
Says Aaron, my colleague, in
a ‘matter of fact’ tone. ‘But,
how can you utter
such words?’ I say,

‘You barely know her!’
Aaron looks annoyed and bitter
‘Well I know girls like her;
they wear all stuff clingy and short
ready to prey,’ he says with a snort.

Thursday, September 01, 2011

When a woman leads…


As a staunch believer of 'live and let live' philosophy, I am scared of places that have a reputation for being extremely intolerant to other ideas, other religion and other races. Gujarat of India is one such place where communal riots, burning and looting of religious minorities are common features. Naturally, I was a little scared to travel there. But when I did travel, I met  amazing people and got stories worth telling for decades. Here is a few line about of those people.



Rihana, 27, lives in a slum of India’s Ahmedabad city. For years, poverty and hunger were constant companions of this daughter of a daily wage earner; often there was no food at home and to suppress the hunger clawing inside her, Rihana would chew tobacco, among other things, just like other young people around her did.

Wednesday, August 31, 2011

My Little Neighbor


‘Bee, sit down,’
‘Bee, don’t go out’
‘Bee, don’t run.' 'Bee, don’t shout’


All day, the flat next door
Reverberates with the sound of ‘don’t.’
Amidst lives Bee… an 8 year old
girl. Thin body, dark hair
With large eyes - full of fear.

Tuesday, August 30, 2011

Anna Hazare: A Train Of Thoughts

Anna Hazare's - the anti-graft activist and the Gandhi of our time, recently led a countrywide movement against corruption. The 74-year old man went on a hunger strike on Aug 16 and broke his fast after 13 days, only when the Govt of India agreed to bring a strong law against corruption.During these 13 days I went from hope to hopelessness to anger before breaking into joy.  Compiled below are my posts on Facebook that reflect these emotions:




Aug 16 – Day 1 of Anna’s Fast


10.30 am
Anna Hazare taken into custody before he could begin fast. I condemn! Only an utterly coward, utterly spineless govt would behave like this.

Monday, August 29, 2011

The Subdued ’Hic’ of an Indian Drink









That it pours cats and dogs in India’s Goa, is a known fact. What you may not know is that for Goans, the best way to beat the monsoon blues is a secret in a bottle: Feni. Yes, a bottle of the locally brewed liquor, coupled a plate of spicy fish curry and rice is what keeps Goans going even when it pours on. 


Yet Feni isn’t just a monsoon drink. It is the drink of all seasons, the spark of every fiesta, celebration and family gathering in Goa. Also, it is the only Indian alcoholic beverage so far, to receive a Geographical Indicator’ (GI) status.
Sadly, of late, all is not well with Feni.
Goa, a coastal state, is also a large producer of cashew- one of the main ingredients of Feni (palm and coconut being the other two). Now, it is said that every self respecting cashew planter in Goa has his own distillery and brews his own Feni. The making of Feni takes 3-4 days. Once the cashew fruit harvested, it’s juiced and buried in the earth and allowed to ferment into alcohol. This heady juice is later heated into vapour over a furnace fuelled by wood from the cashew trees themselves. The rising vapors are collected and cooled in a container. Essentially, this is the local variety of the Feni - home grown and earthy. 
However, for Goans, there is more to Feni than that heady feeling. A hydroxide, the Feni is believed to be an excellent cure for stomach cramps and is also widely seen as an aphrodisiac. 

Lost& Found: A Random Thought

It started as a day of mediocrity when everything happens in a routine, without even a ripple created anywhere to make you feel there's anything special about life. But suddenly, just like that, I looked into (and I have no clue why) my google documents. There, stashed in a pile of files, I found this few verses that I wrote a few months ago, probably in a trip to Gujarat. I don't know if its a poetry - I don't even know what a poetry is anyway - but in a very inexplicable way, these lost forgotten lines made me feel as though the evening had been there especially for em and that ahead of me lay a night of possibility.


Random Thoughts


I see the sun going down
behind the dome of
the brown
Gol Gambuj. Rows of trucks
stand parked against the naked walls
of an unknown structure from a bygone
era.

The sun’s coppery ray
fall on the ‘charpoy’,
where sits the old lady
splitting pea pods. Next to her
Stands Kaali, her buffalo,
Her black body
Looking like a magical shed
in
the
sun

.
Behind me, in a a house I hear 
the sound of radio
‘Welcome to akashvani’ it sings.
The music
slowly
spreads
in the
early evening air. A group of parrots
sit on the cable wire,
Now peeping, now pecking.

A few leaves of neem
falls on the courtyard – yellow, spent of life.

Yes, the set is ready for a drama
called night

It had been a long day

Things happened like
they are wanted: Fast, and frenzied
and got written
about, talked, clicked . Smitten
lover abducting girl
hurting, raping. Toddler

playing with red ball, run over
by a red van. Man arrested,
students tortured.
Shah Rukh mobbed
at film release, Fiza sobbed
recalling her Chand.


Yes, the day brought in a lot
making itself quite happening and hot
enough to keep people talking
and thinking
till they go to bed….


Yet now, its just another sunset
in this city.

And here I am,
sitting alone, drained
of words, thoughts and sights

Darkness descends, from the great heights
of the sky, spreading
numbness

Inside my heart
I
feel
nothing but nothingness.


Yes, absurd it is, but true

I’m so numb, because I miss you

Tuesday, August 09, 2011

Surviving monsoon in Goa, with nature’s special gifts


That monsoon is really difficult time in Goa, is a warning I got since the day I landed here. But then it was the height of winter. So, it was almost impossible to accept the warning wholeheartedly as I couldn’t imagine a Goa that without its usual sunny days, the quiet, blue sea and the lazy beaches.


The first shock, however came when the fishing ban came in force in mid-June.  The ban makes it mandatory for all fishing boats and trawlers to stop their activities until the end of July, to ensure a smooth and undisturbed breeding period. With shock came worries – what would I eat when there were no sea food?

By June end my worries had been multiplied. For 10 days, it had been raining non stop, The sea roared dangerously. Stretches of fields on both sides of the road looked like a massive water body.  The tiny vegetable kiosks by the roadside had closed down because of the strong wind. The supermarkets in the town that usually kept a small stock of vegetables, now displayed empty racks as the supply trucks had not come for days.

After two weeks, finally, there was a little sun and I decided to go to Mapusa – the next town, in search of fresh fish and no vegetables. I entered without much expectation and was immediately hit by the surprising sight: The market was full of vendors – mostly women – selling things I had never imagined before.

To begin with, there were green leafy vegetables of different kind. The women were selling them in tiny piles, making it obvious that these were straight out of their own farm. The freshness and aroma hinted of their organic nature. There were wild mushrooms, sold in bunches, collected from the hills and locally grown corns. And then there were edible ferns – a vegetable I had earlier eaten only in North-East, looking fresh and tempting.


Encouraged by this sight, I was curious to know if there was something new and local in the fish market too. I wasn’t disappointed. Selling in bunches were fresh water crabs and shrimps, beside a few regular varieties.

“Goa always has a back up food system for monsoon”, says Sameer Malik, a resident of Bicholim in north Goa, with a smile. “ Come monsoon and villagers will be on their way to the forest and stream to search for crabs and mushrooms” he adds.

According to Sameer the crabs, the mushrooms or the ferns are all collected only during monsoon. This means they are not over hunted and so Goans do have something special to eat even when the weather is very rough.

Rosario Fernandes, another local based in Calangute, tells me a different story. The boom of tourism has affected agriculture in Goa severely in recent years. People are no longer interested in toiling in the fields. Instead they just build a makeshift restaurant and prefer to earn some easy money. And to suit the palate of the tourists, restaurant owners buy vegetables like capsicum, broccoli, button mushroom or carrots. ‘Most of the year, we get vegetables that are not grown here. It’s only during monsoon when there are no tourists that there is a demand for local vegetable and this is when we finally get to eat these saag (leafy vegetables) and akoor (fern)”, Rosario informs


While both Sameer and Rosario present interesting perspectives, there is something else that I learn on my own: Thanks to the local produce, the ban on fishing stays respected and total. But for this, there would have been violation, I am sure, interfering with the conservation effort. So it’s protecting nature, with the help of one of nature’s own bounties! 

Sunday, April 24, 2011

Silent Heroes - A story retold

Its Easter and I haven't celebrated. I was lonely and flat broke after losing my purse. Yet I am happy. The reason is here - my story getting published in Silent Heroes.tv - an Istanbul based magazine focused on positive journalism. They won the United Nations X-Cultural Reporting Award 2010 and I am happy to be a part of the family! Here is the story:


Giant leap of India’s ‘downtrodden’


Teenage community reporter confronts tyranny, corruption

Mukesh Rajak of Jagdishpur village in eastern India has unusual friends. They sit together on a Sunday afternoon, sipping tea and talking of the village school. The teachers are not regular in the class. Men in the mid and late 40s ask 18-year old Rajak to help.
He confidently advises them to “draft and sign an application for the district education officer, Jharkhand.
The elderly villagers are no ordinary folks but come from powerful ‘Brahmins’ and ‘Kshtriyas’ classes. Rajak, on the contrary, is a ‘Dalit’, the lowest category.
The Hindu society consists of four major classes having a vertical position in the social structure and at the lowest of the order lies ‘Dalit’ which literally means ‘oppressed’.
Despite sincere efforts across India, Dalits are still treated as untouchables and handed out the lowest of jobs such as cleaning drains, toilettes, sweeping streets, skinning animals and even manual scavenging.
Evidently, the Brahmins sitting with Rajak and offering advice is a small revolution.
“People call me when I am passing by their homes and offer me a seat. They want my advice and some even address me ‘sir,” Rajak explains.
Only a year ago, this same group considered Rajak as an untouchable as well. After his mother’s death in early childhood, Rajak’s father remarried. Rajak’s step-mother did not treat him well, so he grew up lonely.
“At home, there was nobody to play with. When I went out in the village, other boys would not play with a Dalit,” he recalls the bitter memories of childhood.
They believed that Rajak was ‘dirty’.
His life started to change for the better in April, 2010 when Rajak joined Video Volunteers, a non-profit group that trains young people from poor and marginalized backgrounds to report on their communities. He learnt the basics of video making for a fortnight. After the training, he was given a pocket-size Kodak HD ZX1 camera. Rajak returned home, ready to work as a ‘Community Correspondent’ for ‘IndiaUnheard’ – a web TV dedicated to community specific news.
It took him over a month to shoot his first video on the bamboo artisans in his village. “It was a difficult phase; nobody had ever spoken to a camera before and whenever I tried to interview them, they shied away”, says Rajak.
Rajak now wanted to make hard-hitting videos i.e. exposé of the corrupt and the mighty. Because he lives in Jharkhand – one of the most corrupt states of India, such passion is easy to understand.
Once, a few school children told him that the teachers were taking bribes. “The charge us for chalks, dusters and, even examinations fees,” said eight-year old Haseena who shares his neighborhood.
In government-runs schools, education is totally free. When Rajak asked the children to complain to the headmaster
, he was informed that he was always ‘drunk’.
“Here is a corruption story right in my community,” Rajak noticed. Next day, he went to the school with his camera, asking the teacher if he took bribes.
Once the video was soon published on Video Volunteers’ IndiaUnheard website, Rajak downloaded it on his mobile and went to the officials concerned.
“I want to complaint against a school teacher. He takes alcohol while on duty and asks for bribes from students,” he said. The officer looked up and saw a boy – Rajak appears younger than his age – standing before her. She was rather amused and asked causally, ‘do you have proof?’
Rajak was ready to present the entire case.
“The way he came to me with the video, a well-written application and even a certificate from his organization that said he was a community reporter, he made my work quite easy,” says Amanda Kumari, Block Education Officer, Jharkhand.
Within a week, she visited the village school, spoke to the students and ordered the teacher to be demoted from his post. In December, 700 students of the school appeared in exams, without paying any bribes.
“Every year, my father had to buy a steel plate to my class teacher before I could take a test. But not any more after Rajak’s video. I want to be like him in future,” says 12-year old Ashmeena Khatoon, from a Jagdishpur village.
Since then, he follows a simple strategy: listen to community members, make the video, and take action whichever way possible. Every day he gets phone calls from someone who has a story that has gone unheard.
Rubia Bibi was branded a ‘witch’ and tortured, a man who got a job, but can’t join because his boss wants a bribe and many more.
As Rajak notes down the story ideas, he prioritizes them according to impact. Shooting the video on the ‘witch’, he informs the Muslim woman about the recently passed anti-witch law. Next day, she is at the police station, citing the law to seek protection.
“I am exposing the wrong as I see it and from where it affects me and my community directly. As a victim, I cannot be a mere observant”, he explains.
Over the last 6 months, Rajak’s responsibility has expanded from one village to a cluster of 60 villages. On January 12, he was honored for this excellent community reporting. The villagers burst crackers and distributed sweets as Rajak received from State’s Chief Minister Arjun Munda the honor – a citation, a shawl and a cash prize of Rs 5,100 (equivalent to 80 Euro or $115).
‘We are proud to have a reporter like you who is working for his community’, said the minister, according to Rajak.
The real award, however, is the chair that Rajak is offered while visiting the homes of his higher caste neighbors. “It feels great to be treated equal. This, for me is the real change,” he says with a broad smile.

Friday, October 01, 2010

Prostitution - In The Name Of Tradition!


In India, it’s the age of women empowerment. 33% of the seats in the parliament is reserved for the women. In rural India, village council must have 50% women members. The country has, for the first time in history, a woman president. In Uttar Pradesh – the country’s most politically powerful state, there is a Dalit(‘lower’caste) woman chief minister. But in the same state of UP men in a village have been, for generations, forcing their daughters and sisters into prostitution saying it’s their ‘tradition’.


Gunjan, a community correspondent of our IndiaUnheard program has just filed a shocking video about Natpura, a village near Lucknow – the capital city of Uttar Pradesh state, where for generations, men have been forcing their daughters and sisters into flesh trade.


The girls in the village are made to start serving clients when they are barely 11 or 12. Because they start so early, no girl here goes to school. No woman here gets married either. The reason is, no man from other villages wants to marry a girl from Natpura.


The most shocking fact is that almost every woman here believes that she is just carrying on a ‘village tradition’, though they don’t know what exactly makes this a ‘tradition’. This thought instilled in them by their family members and other male relatives in the childhood. So few girls protest or even realize that they are being exploited or their rights are violated.

Natpura, which comes under Hardoi district, has about 50 families. In every family, all the young women work as prostitutes and are the main bread earners. But when they are old and have retired from the profession, they live in extreme poverty and loneliness, abandoned by their relatives.

However, the male members of their families are free to live whichever way they want. So men here marry and bring home their brides, whom they protect well, keeping them away from prostitution. But when the same couples have female children, they bring them up only to later initiate them into prostitution.

Gunjan, the young correspondent who is from Uttar Pradesh, says that when she visited Natpura 4 years ago, she was totally unaware of the village’s dark truth. It was like any other Indian village with bad roads and homes with broken walls where barefoot children played around while men gathered in front of a tea shop, sipping tea, smoking and laughing. However, she had been surprised to see a number of women sitting in front of their house, as though waiting for someone.

It was only later she came to know that the women, who should have been ideally busy working in the field or kitchen, were waiting for their clients to arrive.

In past four years, however, things have changed a lot, but only for worse. Now girls are trafficked to work in brothels in cities like Mumbai and Dubai. These girls are also as young as 13/14 and don’t even know the meaning of prostitution when they are packed off to a brothel. In fact when Gunjan tried finding someone of her age to speak with, she couldn’t. Because, she was told, all the girls had gone abroad to ‘work’.

Today it’s mostly women who are thirty or more stay in the village. Their clientele includes several politically and economically powerful people. Most of who live in Lucknow – the state capital. Since these men pay well for the women’s services, men in the village are not willing to let the women leave or retire early from the profession.

The village has no schools, no electricity and no panchayat/village council of its own - facts that makes the village a perfect breeding ground of any social crime.

Gunjan says when she visited Natpura, she felt that this was not a part of the country she lived in. This is because all the talk of empowering women, ensuring their rights fall by wayside when one enters the village. This was the same reaction at IndiaUnheard office once Gunjan sent her footage for editing. Everyone sat around the editing table, listening to the interviews, with shock visibly written on their face.

Gunjan says, once she visited the village, she felt ‘compelled by conscience’ to share this story with the world, so it wakes up, takes notice and helps stop this utter injustice to women that has gone on here for long.

If you have read this far, it means, the wall of the isolation has already started breaking.

To see the plight of the women in the shocking video, click here.

Rohini Powar: Correspondent Par Excellence


A few months back I had first written about her - how she tasted empowerment just by dancing for an evening with a group of fellow rural reporters . For years, it was something she longed for. Now, back to village, she is voicing the same longing and feelings of other women like her, living in her own village of Walhe, Maharashtra. Meet Rohini Power again - this time as a community correspondent who can command anyone's respect.

Nag Panchami or the Snake festival has a totally different meaning for women in Walhe village of India’s Maharashtra. Rohini Powar, who lives in the same village, says that it is the only day of the year when married women like her are allowed to dance and play games, while for the rest of the year they are forbidden to do so.

Rohini, now a community correspondent of Video Volunteers' IndiaUnheard program, has just filed a video report that gives us an exclusive insight into this tradition which allows a rare chance to women in her community to enjoy freedom.

In the rural belt of India – a patriarchal society – women labour harder than men do, their areas of work stretching from home and kitchen to the paddy fields. Yet their lives are dogged with problems such as female infanticide/foeticide, early marriage, dowry, forced divorce, malnutrition, poor health and lack of education.

These are endemic problems existing in all states, irrespective of religion and communities. In Rohini's village also women are treated as inferior to men. So while men are free to do whatever they want, women’s movement is restricted and they must take special permission from their family members even to step out of their homes. They are especially forbidden to sing, dance or play in public view. Those who do so, are looked down upon as women of loose morality.

However, once in a year – on the day of Nagpanchami this bar is lifted and women are expected to dance and play games. So this day local women gather at the snake goddess temple to worship. However, what they really wait for is the moment when the worshipping is over and dance and games can begin. Once that moment comes, everyone joins in dancing and playing – acts that are otherwise considered a taboo.

Rohini says that throughout the year women like her look forward to this day when nobody will shout at them for dancing or, nobody will accuse them of breaking a tradition by playing. However, after this day, they will have to return to the life of restriction again. Rohini feels that this must change.

She wants the patriarchal society to change its thoughts and values, so that women like her will not have to enjoy for one long year to enjoy a day’s freedom.

Watch Rohini's candid report here